An oven that won't heat, heats unevenly, or runs noticeably hotter or cooler than the dial says can throw off every meal. Ovens are simpler machines than refrigerators or washers, but gas and electric ovens fail in different ways. This guide covers both, with what you can check safely and what needs a professional.
Safety first — especially with gas
- •If you smell gas, leave. Don't turn anything on or off, don't use a lighter or matches, and don't use your phone indoors. Get everyone out, then call your gas utility (SoCalGas in most of the area) or 911 from outside.
- •Turn off power before inspecting. Unplug a freestanding range or switch off its breaker. Wall ovens are hardwired, so turn off the breaker.
- •Let the oven cool completely before touching elements, racks or panels.
- •Check the anti-tip bracket. Freestanding ranges should be secured with an anti-tip bracket so they can't tip forward if someone leans on the open door. It's also good earthquake sense.
Electric ovens
Not heating at all
Check the obvious first: is the display on, is the clock set (some ovens won't operate until the time is set), and is a delay-start or Sabbath mode active? Then check the breaker. Electric ranges use a double breaker, and one half tripping can leave the display working but the oven cold.
Bake works but broil doesn't (or the reverse)
Most electric ovens have two elements: bake at the bottom (sometimes hidden under the floor) and broil at the top. Look at the visible element with the oven off and cool. A burned-out element often has a visible break, blister or bubbled spot. If one element works and the other doesn't, the non-working element is the most likely cause, although the relay or control that feeds it can fail too.
Heats slowly or unevenly
A failing element may still glow in places but not produce enough heat. Convection ovens also rely on a fan; if it's stopped or its element has failed, baking results will be uneven.
Gas ovens
The igniter is the usual suspect
Most modern gas ovens use a hot-surface igniter, a small glowing bar near the burner. It does two jobs: it gets hot enough to ignite the gas, and it draws the electrical current that opens the oven's gas safety valve. As an igniter ages, it can still glow orange but no longer draw enough current to open the valve.
The symptom is recognizable: you set the oven to bake, the igniter glows, and then... nothing, or a long delay before the flame lights. Sometimes you'll smell a little gas before it lights with a small whoosh. That's a sign the igniter is weakening and should be checked by a technician. Don't keep using an oven that's slow to light.
No glow at all
If the igniter doesn't glow, it may have failed completely, or the control isn't sending power to it. Stovetop burners working doesn't mean the oven's gas supply is fine, because the oven has its own valve and igniter.
Weak flame or yellow flame
The flame in a gas oven should be mostly blue. A lazy, yellow, sooty flame can indicate a burner or air-shutter problem and should be looked at by a technician.
Oven temperature is off
If food is consistently over- or under-cooked, put an oven thermometer in the center of the oven, set it to 350°F, and check it after 20 minutes and again after 30. Oven temperatures swing up and down while cycling, so average your readings.
- •Slightly off: many ovens let you adjust the temperature offset through the control. Your manual will explain how.
- •Way off, or getting worse: the oven temperature sensor (the thin probe at the back of the oven cavity) may have failed. Many ovens display a sensor-related error code in this case.
Also check the door gasket. A torn or flattened gasket lets heat escape, and you may see heat staining on the cabinets or door edge.
Self-cleaning cycle problems
The self-clean cycle heats an oven far hotter than normal cooking. That's hard on components. It's not unusual for a thermal fuse, sensor, control board or door lock to fail during or right after a self-clean cycle. If your oven stopped working after a self-clean, mention that when you book, because it helps with diagnosis.
If the door is stuck locked after a cycle, let the oven cool fully. If it still won't unlock, turning off the breaker for a minute to reset the control sometimes releases it. If not, it needs a technician.
Wall ovens and high-end ranges
Wall ovens, double ovens and professional-style ranges are common in renovated LA kitchens, from Westside homes to remodeled bungalows. They're built to be serviced, but they're heavy and fitted into cabinetry, so removing them takes care and sometimes two people. Many high-end brands also have parts that need to be ordered. Because replacing a wall oven often means matching the cutout or changing cabinetry, repair is usually the better bet; our repair-or-replace checklist explains why fit matters so much.
We work on many range and oven brands, including professional-style ranges. If you have a Wolf, for example, see our Wolf oven repair page.
When to book a technician
- •Any gas smell, delayed ignition, or a flame that isn't mostly blue
- •The igniter glows but the oven doesn't light
- •A visibly damaged element, or no heat after checking the breaker
- •Temperature problems that don't respond to calibration
- •Error codes that return after a power reset
- •A door that won't unlock or close properly
How a technician diagnoses an oven
For electric ovens, a technician will check the power supply, test the bake and broil elements, the temperature sensor, and the relays or control that power them. For gas ovens, they'll check the igniter's current draw, the gas safety valve, the burner, and gas supply. For both, they'll check calibration and the door seal. There's more on our oven repair page.
Keeping your oven healthy
- •Wipe up spills when the oven has cooled, so you need the self-clean cycle less often.
- •Don't line the oven floor with foil unless your manual allows it; it can block airflow and damage the finish.
- •Keep the door gasket clean and intact.
- •Use an oven thermometer occasionally to check accuracy.
- •Make sure gas ranges have a flexible connector in good condition and an anti-tip bracket installed.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my gas oven take so long to light?
A weakening igniter is the most common cause. It glows but takes longer to draw enough current to open the gas valve. Have it checked rather than waiting for it to fail completely.
Should I use the self-clean cycle?
It's a design feature and safe to use as directed, but it stresses components. Cleaning spills regularly reduces how often you need it.
Can I replace an oven element myself?
On some models it's a straightforward part, but it involves electrical connections. If you're not comfortable, have a technician do it. Always turn off the breaker first.